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| For more than 80 years an ominous tower has loomed over the skyline of Detroit. Long desolate, empty, and dead, it was once the tallest hotel in the world. In its day for more than 50 years, the 33 story Book-Cadillac Hotel hosted Presidents, VIPs, and sports teams from around the country. It is by far, one of the most elegant structures in the city. In recent years it resembled a backdrop from Gotham City rather than an icon from a metropolitan area. Surviving the depression, and changing owners numerous times, the Book has undergone more than just a few renovations through the years. Each time “modernizing” the structure to correct for market conditions or faults of the past, the hotel still retains much of its original Italian renaissance style architect Louis Kamper intended when it was built in 1923. On the outside, the masonry work is synonymous with Old Detroit. It is boldly decorated with pillars, cornerstones, statues, copper trim, and stonework that give this building its unique style. Stone arches, balconies, and railings make up the ground level view from the street. Looking up the front of the hotel, broken windows once were scattered across the buildings face. The lights were off for more than 20 years; at night the downtown skyline was blocked leaving a wall of darkness in place where the Book-Cadillac stood empty. |
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Considered an eyesore by some, The Coleman Young administration lobbied to tear it down without success. For years the awning hovering over Michigan Avenue sheltered vagrants from the elements, leaving the front sidewalk blanketed with newspapers and garbage; all helping to contribute to the dingy image Detroit has come to be known for so well. From the time it closed in 1984 until 1997, the city had a guard posted to keep vandals and scrap thieves out, but as the economy in the region dissipated, so did funding for the security, and suddenly the Book-Cadillac became vulnerable. Over the next six or seven years, the Book was released to vandals who stripped the building of its valuables. Chandeliers, copper wiring, plumbing, heating and cooling systems, all compromised, leaving literally only a voided shell. In 2003 the Kilpatrick administration announced an ambitious $200 million renovation plan. But first, the city had obstacles. Because of building practices when the Book was constructed, it was filled with hazardous materials ranging from lead paint to asbestos to PCBs. When thieves removed the electrical transformers, they spilled the chemicals that the valuable copper components were submerged in. This liquid was allowed to seep through the majority of the building, over time, slowly spreading the contamination. This damage made the project very difficult from the beginning. The city was obligated to clean up the building before any other work could start. Progress was slow and the project hit a snag with funding, and suddenly the renovation was on hold due to shaky financing. When the work stopped, a large hole was left in the middle of the sidewalk inviting the curious inside.
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Taking a chance that there wouldn’t be an easy way out, I surrendered to the temptation and climbed down the partially built basement wall. The sidewalk had been removed, likely for the purpose of tearing out old building equipment while at the same time leaving the basement exposed. The retaining wall had been partially reconstructed with rebar rods woven together that created a structure to climb on. It was about 20 feet down to the floor below. After carefully scaling the wall, I reached the bottom where I discovered that most of the basement had been gutted. Parts of the boiler were still intact, but it seemed workers had been in the process of removing the remaining portions when work ceased. A fire also burned on this level painting the ceiling black with soot. Now, most of the space is hollow, only steel supports of the building remain. The stairwell led to another sub basement that was mostly flooded from the autumn rain. It was dark, smelly, and wet on this level so I chose to head towards the lobby instead. |
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The lobby was not much different than the basement. In fact, with the exception of a leather couch lingering in the waiting area, there was nothing of the original décor left. The whole floor had been stripped down to concrete and steel. Where damage occurred on the flooring, small squares had been cut out replacing the weak spots with holes. It also seemed the contamination had been cleaned up. None of the plaster walls remain, no wiring, and no plumbing; just the bear-bones structure. Construction lights had been placed inside for the workers because not much daylight penetrated the outside façade that had now been long boarded up. The stairways and ledges were straddled with makeshift wooden railings, creating an illusion of safety. Portions of the building were even being supported with temporary poles and braces.
Several floors of the building above the lobby enclosed dining and ballrooms. These too, were in the process of being stripped down. The main ballroom stood two floors tall and was surrounded by balconies on the second level. Sadly missing was the grand chandelier that once hung in the center of the room and the decorative molded plaster borders also long gone. A grand staircase once led from the dance floor to the overlook, but was currently filled with construction debris waiting to be cleared. On this level, the windows let abundant light inside from the view overlooking Washington Boulevard. Several other small banquet rooms are adjacent in the area, but none of them occupied the amount of space or elegance of the main ballroom that was depicted in a scene from the 1970’s movie “Detroit 9000”. The floor above the ballroom is filled with triangular steel trusses that hold up the lower roof. This floor seemed shorter than the others, perhaps for the purpose of housing mechanical systems for the building. It also lacked windows making this floor very dark. |
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Standing on the lower roof above the ballrooms, the view opens wide when looking up the center of the building’s core. Continuing upward, I found that about the first third of the building was completely nude, stripped down bare. The walls around the elevator shafts had been torn down allowing an unobstructed view downwards. The lobby area on each level had about five main service elevators. Located in the far corner was another set of elevators, one a service elevator for the staff, the second a freight elevator, and third was a private lift dedicated to the penthouses Cleopatra suite. These elevators operated at a point in history when there would have always been a human operator on board. Several of the gutted floors were in the process of being prepped for the new construction that would soon follow. Orange and red lines outlined where future walls were to be built. Absent however, were all tools and supplies needed for the construction. |
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While proceeding to the roof on an exhausting climb, to my amazement I found the second third of the building was still mostly in tact. This was the reason I climbed through the hole in the sidewalk. I was very excited that I had not missed the opportunity to see the true insides' of the Book-Cadillac. The faded and yellowed wallpaper told a story of better times in Detroit; vintage bathrooms reflected their faded lime green hue in the evening sunshine. These walls were built before drywall and commercial construction codes. Their mass was made up of heavy bricks rather than modern supplies you would expect. The windows were all here still, but it was not long until construction resumed and the old windows disappeared only to be replaced with more efficient models. On one particular floor was a remnant of some of the buildings artwork. Perched on the wall was a hand painted oriental rug. Rather than the floor, it was right up on the wall. Construction crews had knocked a hole through the corner while running power lines for their equipment. |
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As I got closer to the roof, the floors became barren once again. Work had started from the top and the bottom, but had not intersected in the middle yet. Looking down through the elevator shaft, the massive proportions of the Book became clear. The upper floors looked exactly like the lower, stripped and empty, only offering a better view of the city. The top floor allowed access to several penthouse suites on the corners of the building. These copper draped ziggurats were once the caps of the most premiere hotel rooms of the day, offering a 360-degree view of the city. The outer façade of the building sustained damage through out the years. Crews worked summer and winter for several years repairing, restoring, and cleaning off the grime and soot, revealing a bright, clean, and new looking surface for the Detroit’s next prized center piece. The Cleopatra suite, the jewel of the Book-Cadillac, sits a couple floors higher than the other suites. It was constructed as two floors with private balconies overlooking three sides of the city. |
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This was easily the best spot to be in the entire hotel, and the reason why the condo that was recently built here sold for more than $2 million. I wandered to the highest point of the roof where elements from the decorative masonry were in the process of being removed, cataloged, and restored. Much of the 80-year-old vintage copper had not yet been taken down. Workers made as much of an effort to reuse original materials as possible, but much could not be saved. Now capped with new shiny copper flashing, the ziggurats will surely turn green with noble rust as time and weather pass. After such a long day, the sun began setting, and the Book-Cadillac receded into the dark Detroit night. On the way down the stairwells my body cast giant shadows from construction lights on the Lafayette building across the street. It was likely no surprise to the folks waiting at the D.D.O.T. bus stop below when I suddenly appeared climbing out of a hole in the sidewalk. |
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As you may be aware, the Book-Cadillac project finally did secure funding, opening in October of 2008 as the mixed-use Westin Book-Cadillac Hotel with residential space. Because the building is listed as historical, extra measures were taken to ensure the craftsmanship replicated that of the original construction. No major changes have been made to the façade, with the exception of a new ballroom on the ground floor, and one extra multi-million dollar condo. A new parking structure was also built next door on the former site of the Peoples Outfitter building to accommodate guests with a bridge linking the two. With residents moving in, the developers, the Ferchill Group, now focus on their next project, the Fort Shelby Hotel just down the street. Now that work is complete the great Book-Cadillac is ready for the next 80 years and beyond.

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