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It was the fall of 1973, just six years after the fifteen-floor office tower and the main "grand" lobby of the Michigan Central Depot closed. Photographer and student Keith Jolly was permitted to document, in intimate detail, what may be the saddest chapter in Detroit's history of neglecting historic architecture. Through the lens of this photographic artist, one can appreciate the remarkable feelings of grandeur and luxury the Michigan Central Station conveyed to arriving and departing passengers. Also captured in these prints the eerie sense of impending neglect and subsequent ruin that would become the Depot's lasting image. With Amtrak's permission, he was granted access to the two lower levels of the station. These pictures were taken some thirty-five years ago and like a window into the past, we gaze in amazement at the remarkable life the station once had. Working with photographer Keith Jolly, onlynDetroit sought out to recapture the images, as they exist today. As Keith Jolly would document the beginning of the end, onlynDetroit has been documenting the station’s "afterlife". We wanted to offer a true unfiltered view into this modern urban phenomenon. This project has been years in the making and we are proud to share our retrospective of thirty-five years of decay inside The Michigan Central Station.

 
     
 
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Forged from great vision during the industrial age, the locomotive was a wonder of its time. Before the rail system was established, American traveling was taxing and burdensome. The advent of reliable, safe, and convenient transportation spurred a new race. Barons and capitalists across the country hurried to build industries from nothing. Once the tracks were laid, people traveled in and out of Detroit from all over as the automobile industry grew. Jet-black locomotives whistled as they arrived and departed. Some of the nicer trains carried rail cars with luxuries like bars, restaurants, and fancy plumbing. The race to build homes for these metal horses was also underway. The early part of the 1900s saw a huge demand for passenger travel and Detroit was under pressure to build a new station. The Fort Union Station was already located downtown. It was demolished one year after these photos were taken. Despite already having a site for rail transit, city planners decided to start the construction of the new Michigan Central Depot anyway. It was envisioned to sit on the western outskirts of a fully bloated downtown Detroit. This vision of a hearty Detroit population never materialized. Just some forty-five years after opening, the Depot would close its main lobby and enormous office tower.

     


During its heyday, the trains departing from the station carried well-dressed women, professionals and those in uniforms all across this country and Canada. All enjoyed the comforts of the classic station as they waited to board trains with names like "The Twilight Limited" and "The Mercury Train." It truly was a different day than we live now. The over the top classic décor and attention to personal detail have been lost on the modern traveler zipping in and out of airports while being herded around like cattle. These snapshots of history not only show the physical deterioration of the structure, but also depict the recent decay of American culture.

 

 
     
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Perhaps you found yourself here in Detroit passing through town in the 1920s or 30s. You would have walked through these gates and experienced an over the top spectacle in classic design; architecture was truly breathtaking in the northern Midwest. If you had been visiting from out of town and arrived safe you may have wanted to let your family know by sending a postcard. With the pocket change left over from your shoeshine you could purchase a postcard and an 8-cent stamp from the station’s gift shop. Once you had scribbled your heartfelt sentiments you could drop the card in the ornate brass mailbox in the building’s east lobby. This antique mailbox was stolen by thieves sometime after the closing of the station.

     
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Once the building was left totally unsecured thieves also removed the atrium leading to the passenger tunnels shown above. The elements have taken their toll: large holes in the roof allow rain and even snow inside. There were once skylights in this room, and until WWII they let in natural light. During the war Detroit was know as the "Arsenal of Democracy," and because of the security importance of the station, the skylights were ordered to be painted black. By all accounts the paint was never removed from the skylights, and now only the rectangle frames remain as a reminder they were ever there. To the east of the passenger tunnel were the offices for the U.S. customs and immigration agencies. Holding cells and processing areas under the tracks housed people waiting to be cleared by the U.S. government. The opening of a railroad tunnel leading under the Detroit River to Canada is just a few hundred yards away. This strategic tunnel was another major reason a site west and south of downtown was chosen. Today these tunnels are used by smugglers to bring illegal aliens across the Detroit River. The Ambassador Bridge handles most of the international transportation these days.

 
     
 
The railroad industry by itself helped win World War II for America, or at least on the home front. By being organized, flexible, and relatively efficient, America was able to pull resources from all over the country in two mass war efforts. The fractured rail systems of Europe and Germany were never as powerful as America’s united rail line. Detroit's true might lay in the staggering numbers of vehicles, ships, airplanes and weapons produced and shipped during that time. Aside from both manufactured and raw materials, government businessmen working on war contracts also arrived in the Motor City. From early on until the 1980s, the military primarily used rail service to transport their soldiers. Shown in this photo is an apprehensive-looking pair of young enlistees sitting in the lobby waiting for their train to arrive. The rail industry benefited greatly from wartime revenue.

 

   
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When boarding the trains, people would gather on the concourse or in the tunnel to say their goodbyes. Steel plates have now been welded over the stairwells leading to the departure platforms. Outside, overhead pavilions keep the elements from the awaiting passengers. In 2000 the pavilions were demolished, and most of the tracks removed. Located on the west side of the passenger tunnels were the freight operations that kept the station in business so long. All the shipping that came into the station was processed and shipped back out of this facility. Also housed on the western side of the building was parking for the cabs that transported visitors around town. The Station had once been a thriving circus of international commerce, but by the 1960s passenger rail and industrial demand was declining. As America became an import society, rather than an industrial export society, the rail industry was naturally affected first. By 1988, the depot would close for good, but it wouldn't stay sealed long. Currently no one other than photographers, explorers or the indigent seek shelter in the ruins of the depot.


 

   

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No building on the Detroit skyline has the aura of history that the Michigan Central does. In the old days, indulgence in classic design wasn't a faux pas, it was the architecture of Detroit. Perhaps people had more appreciation for the finer things, but it’s safe to say a building of this caliber would never be built today. Architects now would never construct a building like this because of the sheer costs. Aside from the imposing might of such a building, the real elegance of the structure came in the attention to details - another thing lost in today's modern era. Details included things like the ornate brass mailbox, the Doric columns, and the mahogany benches that once filled the lobby. The main "grand" lobby is a feat of architectural wonder in itself. The thinly tiled domes of the Gustavino arches commanded respect and invited passengers inside. Even though they are severely deteriorated they still command the same level of admiration they once did. The overall ambiance of the structure conveyed comfort and nobility. The classic look of Gothic Renaissance is everywhere, but the conveniences and styles of the modern era had made their mark on the historic building too.

 
     
 
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An arcade of travel shops on the main level along with large windows and doorways gave the station an open airy feeling. Even during busy summer days the cold marble helped to cool and calm people wary of traveling. The shops of the station were like any you might find in a modern day airport. There was a magazine and gift stand, a pharmacy, soda stand, a cigar shop and even a barbershop located near the east entrance. There was a woman's private waiting room in the front near Roosevelt Park. Besides the diner counter there were other dining options as well. The station’s apex restaurant featured a space dominated by tall pillars capped with flawlessly smooth arched domes. During a "modernization" period in the 1950s, a drop ceiling was added, covering up the room’s diminutive Gustavino arches. It was known as the Mercury Room from that time on. The basement housed a kitchen that served the restaurant's visitors. Above the Mercury Room was a bar dedicated to serving only the station’s employees. The dining counter on the concourse was a favorite of passengers and workers looking to sip a fountain drink or get a bite to eat. Like the rest of the interior, it has also gone the way of the scrap pile.

 

   
 
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During Detroit's industrial peak, parts and goods were shipped throughout the city by rail. There was an elaborate system of freight yards every couple of miles along the tracks inside the city. As highways were constructed and the airlines formed, shipping via rail became slow and outdated. As the auto industry declined, so did the need for railroad transportation in America. One by one the city's rail yards disappeared and after a brief closing in the early 1970s, Amtrak purchased the station. In an attempt to save the depot, the rail conglomerate sunk one million dollars into renovations. In 1975 the station formally reopened with a large lavish ceremony. American flags, roses, and banners were everywhere. However, not included in the new renovations or the reopening was the main "grand" lobby. It still sat empty. These photos are evidence that Amtrak was serious about preserving the depot, or at least parts of it. Those goals have since been lost on subsequent owners corrupted by modernization and indifference. Billionaire Manuel J. Moroun, the current owner of the property for some fourteen years, must now answer his critics as to why he has turned his back on the station for so long.  

 

 

     
 
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Every row of brick and stone is evidence of this city's love for classic architecture. Every square inch, including the elegant hallways and bathrooms, was covered in fine marble. The depot left a lasting impression on visitors who pass through her halls. Those making the journey have also made a lasting impression on the station as well. As far back as WWI soldiers would carve their names in the marble columns in the restrooms. This graffiti was an early precursor to the kind of scarring the depot's walls have today. Neglect by the owner has taken its toll on the structure. Virtually all of the historic features have been damaged or stolen. A large and brilliantly gleaming brass clock once kept pace at the ticket counter. Tick...Toc…Tick…Toc.... A copper roof with a noble green patina once covering both the lobby and concourse. Again, there is absolutely no trace of these things left. Thin strips of tin that helped fasten the copper roof to the structure are all that remain. On windy days the steel truss of the old skylights makes eerie sounds. It creeks and moans under its own weight. As it contracts and expands, flakes from the rusted ceiling rain down, covering the lobby floor. The light dust and scattered debris hide the details of the beautiful marble tile underneath.
     
 
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1973 was the first time the Michigan Central Station closed its doors. During the 1970s the rail industry nationwide was forced to restructure. In the old days, a freight train would have a pair of engineers and conductors to operate the engines. Depending on the size of the train, there could be dozens of men on board. When the train would arrive in a rail yard, it was the job of the conductors to attach and detach the correct railcars. In the early days of the rail industry, the conductors also served as the brakemen. Today, a typical freight train has one engineer, and one or two conductors. Computers help to do the work of the conductors. New modern sensors and tracking technology are embedded into each railcar, helping the engineer in transit and in the yards as well.  
     
 

Another sign of change in the industry was the phasing out of the caboose. This was the conductor's car where the sleeping crew would bunk overnight. On long hauls, multiple shifts were usually required and this is where the crew stayed. The caboose was often called the "loose caboose" because of its notorious reputation as a party car. Engineers, conductors, and some patrons often spent long trips gambling, drinking and doing drugs in the train's caboose. When this was phased out in the early 1980s, it sent a signal that a smarter, more efficient industry was on a war path. Old, inefficient cathedral-type stations would ultimately suffer the hardest. As it became impossible to maintain the goliath Michigan Central, Amtrak sought money from private foundations to ease the burden. As late as 1985, the Kaybee Corporation put millions into new restorations in hopes of saving the dying depot. These last-ditch efforts were all but futile and the depot would remain open for only another three years.

 

 

 

     
 
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These halls were once home to vendors selling souvenirs and goods. Due to the dwindling industrial economy in Detroit, foot traffic in the depot declined and the vendors slowly evaporated. When the depot was constructed, no one had any idea that rail travel would become outdated so soon. Demand for the station weaned and soon dropped off completely. Once this busy, noisy place was filled with people hurrying to board the roaring trains; now the sounds of the people and industry are a distant memory. Rail travel became a rapidly declining mode of transportation in Detroit. To help promote automobile use, the city disconnected its electric streetcar service in the 1950s. The trolley system was the last connection people in the city had with the rail system at the Depot as it affordably shuttled passengers from downtown to Roosevelt Park and back. It’s ironic that in 2009 we are pushing harder than ever to regain urban freedom and bring light rail back to the city of Detroit. This begs the question why such a system was completely abandoned in the first place. The sad reality is, this is Detroit after all…and no reason is needed. It just is what it is.  
     
 
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  By the end of the stations existence, great trains like the "California Zephyr" and New York's prestigious "Twilight Limited" stopped pulling into the depot. Besides the Mercury train to Chicago, only daily routes to Ann Arbor on an electric-engine were still operating. The down turn in Michigan's economy landed a direct hit to the aging station. After selling for under $85,000.00 in the early 1990s, the Depot's future started to unravel. The Michigan Central is often seen as a physical metaphor for what has happened to the city of Detroit. Its fate… is the people's fate. Its life was the people's life, and only through these and other historic photos can we appreciate that life now. I imagine that if this city ever truly committed to mass transit, that this building could one day have a soul and purpose again. It's possible for history to repeat itself as people put pressure on local officials for light rail transit in Detroit. I see the station reverting back to some state of its original glory. With persistence and dedication, along with several millions of dollars, the Train Station could be restored. The Westin Book Cadillac and Fort Shelby Hotels are precedent for the Michigan Central’s comeback. As a mass transit hub, the station could be a vital piece in linking the southwest corridor and the rest of southeast Michigan to the city. 
     

     
 
     
 
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